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Maintaining oil finished stock on a Sako...

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

sns2

Member
I just bought a Sako Bavarian that has an oil finished stock. It is very nice and is exactly what I wanted, a muted piece of lovely walnut. My question for is about what type of oil should I use to periodically maintain my stock and possibly make the grain pop a little bit more.

In my reading there seems to be a mix of opinions between tung oil and boiled linseed.

I would be very interested in the thoughts and experiences of people who have had oil finished guns currently or in the past. I just don't want to screw up the stock on a rifle that I spent a long time saving for.
 
A light application of Watco Danish oil finish in natural color would be the ticket. The product is readily available at Home Depot stores. Apply with a 600 wet sand black abrasive paper, then with 800, finishing with 1000, then wax with carnauba based Minwax applied with a piece of felt. You may try this treatment on a scrap piece of walnut first, and then you will be a believer!
--Best Wishes, Chapparal Hunter
 
Arrow Oil from Miracle Products in Wisconsin. Rub in lightly with your fingers & let dry. If it's not as muted or satin-like as you prefer just card with 0000 steel wool to desired tone. Very quick & easy. Very weather resistant. I coat the inletting & barrel channel with it also.
 
If you like the flat oil look just stick to a product like SCHAFTOL. You can take a look at what it looks like on mine, look under New Guy, on show us you SAKO. IF you have a hard time finding SCHAFTOL let me know and I can help you out... Good luck.........:smile1:
 
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Shaftol should be avoided as it contains a small portion of silicone wich will, in fact, gradually break down the fibres. CCL red root oil should be used.

BTW, I have two stocks that are under a heavy refurbishment process. It's a 3-4 month process and I use a very special home made oil that I bought from a gunsmith guru here in Norway. If you want to, I can post a series of images showing the process as it moves forward. Would this be th correct Forum Group to use?

The process is like this:
Manually scracth/scrap off the oil finish
Rub with a rough sandpaper
Rinse with turpentine. PS! Make sure it's ORGANIC and that it does'nt contain any trace of minerals
Rest for 24 hrs
Rub with a medium sandpaper
Rinse with the organic turpentine
Rest for 24 hrs
Rub with fine sandpaper
Rinse.....
Repat until it's perfect

Apply CCL Red root oil or similar(no silicone og mineral content at all). PS! Apply with care! Extremely thin layers only. The first 48 hrs I put on a thin layer every 4'th hour, then a thin layer in the morning AND evening until the stock is saturated. It's saturated when a thin layer of oil uses 24-48hrs to dry. PS! Avoid skinning...

Edit(how to handle the checkering):
Before applying 100% oil on the checkering, mix the turpentine with oil 2:1 a few thin layers. I use a stiff brush to spread the oil all over the checkering. Then, mix it 1:1 and apply a few thin layers. After 5-10 thin layers of mixing the two, 100% oil can be used.

Then a thin layer of siccative is applied once a day for three days(helps drying). I use cobalt siccative

The I put the stock away for at least a month, maybe 2-3 months too(to dry properly). Dont't rush this vital step...

Now it's time to fill the pores:
Mix a drop of siccative and a drop of oil on a 600 sandpaper and rub until a slimy layer appears. Keep this layer and repeat until the whole stock is covered with this slime.
Wait for 48 hrs(25 should be sufficient, but 48 hrs is the most secure choice)
Rub gently off the dried slime layer with a very fine sandpaper(1000 paper)
Repeat for 5-7 timers
Dry the stock for 48 hrs

Now the wet look finish build up process can start

This can be accomplished by massaging the siccative/oil mix onto the stock. Less is more(this rule applies throughout the entire process)

Finally, a nice wet-look appears and it's supposed to be extremely water resistant and hard as well.

I can post a before/after sample from a drilling project that our Mentor did a few years ago. I bought his home made oil. A small bottle costs $40m, but it should be sufficient for 2-3 stocks.

Does anyone else here know about this kind of processing?

My AII is now resting for a month and still has a long way to go. Here's a few "before images":
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qqya6ahhqjl2dwl/IMG_7347-Venstre.JPG

Here's a folder containing a few images just before it was put away to rest for a month:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lt3sloamnvidcrf/LRKk61v_NI
 
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Ravis - that is a VERY interesting process. yes would love to see the before and after. I assume by ORGANIC turpentine you mean what we call Pure Turpentine, which is a completely different substance to mineral turpentine. What is CCL red root oil - a combo of oils or a pure oil? I use a mix of pure china tree oil [real 100% tung oil] and beeswax dissolved in pure turpentine, but very interested in the siccative to help it all along a bit quicker. tho do you think the siccative will work with the dissolved beeswax?
 
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I assume by ORGANIC turpentine you mean what we call Pure Turpentine, which is a completely different substance to mineral turpentine.
Yes, I think we're talking about the same stuff. BTW, all kind of mineral ingredients should be banned.

What is CCL red root oil - a combo of oils or a pure oil?
It's a commecial product available that is suitable for this kind of stock processing. Just google it. I bought a home made product made by this gunstock guru. Bear in mind that the same guru recommends CCL Red Root Oil as well, but he prefers his own mix.

I use a mix of pure china tree oil [real 100% tung oil] and beeswax dissolved in pure turpentine, but very interested in the siccative to help it all along a bit quicker. tho do you think the siccative will work with the dissolved beeswax?
I'm no expert at all and cannot answer that question. I can ask my own mentor/community though, they will know.

I hope the mod allows me to link to a norwegian webiste to show off the before/after images. Scroll down to the post by Ranger, but don't miss the images before that post:
http://www.kammeret.no/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=15802&hilit=bivoks&start=280

I would also like to link to the thread of our mentor were he documents how he refurbished his friends old and damaged drilling:
http://www.kammeret.no/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=15802&hilit=bivoks

He was pussled by the overwhelming interest by the community and created a "woodstock" thread where people contributed with their own projects, often mentored by the master himself:
http://www.kammeret.no/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=17436

You might want to browse these threads just to see what these guys do. You might even want to do a google translate :D
 
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