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Short Actions Long extractor?
- Thread starter wombat
- Start date
Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum
bloorooster
The Old Hippie
From the rifles I’ve seen here in the states, the long extractor phased out with the L 46.
The 461 bolt and it’s extractor were all all similar to the L 579 and L61r design in my opinion.
BUT…I’ve noticed over time that Sako shipped rifles to Australia that bore parts that are different in dimension and appearance! One example would be the shorter cocking piece on L579’s
Are there any photos you can supply to show this long extractor/ L461 configuration?
Bloo
The 461 bolt and it’s extractor were all all similar to the L 579 and L61r design in my opinion.
BUT…I’ve noticed over time that Sako shipped rifles to Australia that bore parts that are different in dimension and appearance! One example would be the shorter cocking piece on L579’s
Are there any photos you can supply to show this long extractor/ L461 configuration?
Bloo
Last edited by a moderator:
bloorooster
The Old Hippie
kevinlg
Sako-addicted
Hip........
After all the effort I have spent assembling Conetrol mounts and rings.............it seems, as I've been told, there's little time left for eating/sleeping.
But........I'll see what I can scrounge together.........with what little time.......years......I have left.
After all the effort I have spent assembling Conetrol mounts and rings.............it seems, as I've been told, there's little time left for eating/sleeping.
But........I'll see what I can scrounge together.........with what little time.......years......I have left.
bloorooster
The Old Hippie
All I have left are 46’s … are the extractors similar?
Here's a photo of the earlier "long" L461 extractor beside the later "short" extractor. The short one happens to be from an A-I, but it is the same as the late L461's. The "short" extractor is essentially the same design as used on the L57/L579/L61R, etc.
douglastwo
Sako-addicted
I have 2 Sako L461 with the long extractor that were inspected in 1968. One is a 223 serial number 785xx inspected on 8/16/68. The second is a 222 serial number 1021xx inspected on 12/18/68. Both rifles are Bofors marked and have the S-Type floorplate release. The balance of my 461's are pre 1968 rifles and they have long extractors.
Bill Suter
Active Member
Hello, new member here. But the good folks on Accurate Shooter told me that if anyone can help, it will be you folks here. I have a L461 in 223, and the long extractor is going bad. It still extracts but its hit and miss. As we all know, a long extractor is near impossible to find. What are my options? I was wondering if a M-16 extractor install might be a fix. My rifle is no where collector grade as its got an aftermarket barrel and stock so keeping original isn't an issue. I'm looking for reliable. Thanks
Sorry for jumping in on the OP's post but figure its on the same subject so hope you don't mind.
Sorry for jumping in on the OP's post but figure its on the same subject so hope you don't mind.
gunner620
Well-Known Member
Bill I remember that Zastava used a long extractor that could be used (with some slight modification ) to replace a 461 extractor. Try doing a google search for Zastava long extractor repair for Sako 461 and that may take you to something. It's worth a try. Maybe someone else on the forum has a better memory than mine. Jim
Bill Suter
Active Member
Been there done that. They are sold out as well. Everywhere I look I get the same results. I've spent about 6 hours searching the net and sending emails and no luck yet. It sucks having to take a cleaning rod to the range just to shoot. The rifle may fail on the first shot or shoot 20 rounds and not have an issue. When looking at the extractor, the claw is almost gone. Spent cases come right out with a gentle tap with the rod. I'm quickly running out of ideas.
Bill.
If the curve of the extractor has not changed and is proper to allow the 'claw' to engage the cartridge rim as intended by its spring action, and as you say the claw has been worn until the grip is lost, there is one possible remedy as a very last resort. I give this advise reluctantly as it should be attempted only by expert repair methods to prevent further damage to the extractor. All measurements of the exact dimensions of the claw should be recorded by micrometer before starting this repair. First step- an expert journeyman welder could form fit the entire extractor on a small plate of brass formed to fit the curvature and mold of the the extractor except for the very last portion of the claw. (The purpose of the brass plate backed by a wet filler is to act as a heat soaker to prevent loss of temper of the extractor.) Then the worn portion of the claw can be carefully and quickly built back up with a proper alloy of high tensile weld rod with the minimum necessary amount of heat by an Oxy-Hydrogen or Oxy-Acetylene torch using the proper tip to suit. Immediate oil cooling of the claw after filling would restore the temper of the claw. This process would prevent loss of temper of the extractor if done properly by a professional. The second step should be done by an expert using a Dremel tool with the proper grinding inserts to carefully return the claw to original dimensions by using the bolt and a casing to determine proper fit of the claw. Sounds complicated? Actually not to most tool and die makers, but it does require the proper technique for success. As I stated in the beginning, this should not be attempted by 'Bubba' methods as further damage or destruction to the extractor may happen. I hope that you can find a replacement OEM Sako extractor and solve your problem rather than this last resort attempt. Cheers, Sakojim.
If the curve of the extractor has not changed and is proper to allow the 'claw' to engage the cartridge rim as intended by its spring action, and as you say the claw has been worn until the grip is lost, there is one possible remedy as a very last resort. I give this advise reluctantly as it should be attempted only by expert repair methods to prevent further damage to the extractor. All measurements of the exact dimensions of the claw should be recorded by micrometer before starting this repair. First step- an expert journeyman welder could form fit the entire extractor on a small plate of brass formed to fit the curvature and mold of the the extractor except for the very last portion of the claw. (The purpose of the brass plate backed by a wet filler is to act as a heat soaker to prevent loss of temper of the extractor.) Then the worn portion of the claw can be carefully and quickly built back up with a proper alloy of high tensile weld rod with the minimum necessary amount of heat by an Oxy-Hydrogen or Oxy-Acetylene torch using the proper tip to suit. Immediate oil cooling of the claw after filling would restore the temper of the claw. This process would prevent loss of temper of the extractor if done properly by a professional. The second step should be done by an expert using a Dremel tool with the proper grinding inserts to carefully return the claw to original dimensions by using the bolt and a casing to determine proper fit of the claw. Sounds complicated? Actually not to most tool and die makers, but it does require the proper technique for success. As I stated in the beginning, this should not be attempted by 'Bubba' methods as further damage or destruction to the extractor may happen. I hope that you can find a replacement OEM Sako extractor and solve your problem rather than this last resort attempt. Cheers, Sakojim.
Bill Suter
Active Member
Years ago before I retired, I had a tig welder working for us that probably could have built it back up. He was a true wizard with a tig machine. But those days are gone and my machine tools as well. I rely on good folks like you all to get me through tough times and marlin92 has bailed me out. Many many thanks as I was almost to the point of giving up. Hope my newness doesn't get on your nerves. I always have questions.
