How do you store your extra stocks?

[Charles Witt]

Hello and Happy Thanksgiving to my fellow Sako enthusiasts!
I have many extra stocks and barrels that fit l461, l579, and l61r rifles. I am seeking advice on how to store these in a way that is not intrusive on my available rackspace, but also do not want to hide them away where they will never seen again.
I used to just lean these in racks as if they were guns, but I am out of rackspace and I'm already having to spread my rifles out into a variety of different gun cabinets, carousels, gun safes, wall displays, and worst of all, in their factory boxes or in various hard and soft cases. This system is a fairly difficult to organize at a high level and not what I prefer. I am redesigning and expanding my gun room to allow for some more rackspace and workspace, but these stocks and barrels need to find a home that's not buried amongst all of the soft cases. They are going to end up needing their own place to call home. For now I have them in gun socks stored amongst the soft cases on a shelving unit.
Where do you guys store all of your extra stocks and barrels?
Thank you.

 

[Spaher]

Have you considered storing extra stocks horizontally on retail store type hanger that are used for smaller bagged items, available in different lengths, i.e., 8”-12”? Would require short hanging system as a brace and 2 hangers, but take up the space of 1 stock but hold 5-6 stocks.
Every gun room should have some shelving, say deep enough for scopes, pistol boxes, actions & barrels (18”?), could build 1 or two & have them sit on top of one of your gun safes, possibly. Depending on barrels could attach a pair slotted boards to hold the barrels horizontally on the top of this these shelves and keep them from rolling and multiple barrels side by side.
Floor space & wall space become a premium spot once you start crowding with cool stuff.
My op is that the door used for your gun room & cost is always cost-effective. Govt uses Brown Safe doors, as many on mkt are not difficult to access with a grinder with good blade, but if using a metal door consider an electo-magnet in the 2,-4,000 lb range with keypad located in a distant obscure location. These magnets serve only as a backup but reasonably priced ($400-500?) and have a 12V battery system available if a power failure. The magnets are only a redundant system. Hinges need prying protection as well for metal doors or steel plate. If using steel plate as a primary door in front of a steel door, consider flipping one of the 3(?) hinges to prevent lifting the plate with a floor or hydraulic jack by experienced rats as the ball bearing heavy duty hinges if placed in tandem can be raised. Some have had experience with ranch gates being opened by raising the hinges side 6” so need flip a hinge to avoid this event.
Add’l point, if thinking of a vault door, suggest not using keypad operated by 9V battery but use a manual dial system. First of all, electronic locks do malfunction at times. Secondly, a good locksmith can bypass the pop-on/off keypad & access the actuating solenoid to open the door via the wire hole behind the keypad. You can research on YouTube how to open inexpensive safes with a strong earth magnet that “opens” the solenoid that locks/opens the safe cross bolts.
Mere thoughts as best think out before assembly.

 

[Spaher]

Charles, here are hangers I was referring to, these hold a few stocks horizontally. Hanging system thru Gallow Technologies (gallowtech.com). Brackets come in all sizes, width/length. Other photo shows 4 of 5” wall brackets side by side that can use for hangars, short/small shelving etc with minimum space.

 

[Wayne]

Spaher, Looks as though you only accessorize with Leupold products.Wayne

 

[Spaher]

Hey Wayne, sure looks that way, but what I’m trying to do after many years is organize the various manufacturer & model bases k& rings as they’ve been bagged & mostly unlabeled. This grouping was to try to use the same scope for 2-3 different rifles with the same action type via quick release bases, but then the issue became the tube size, 1”, 30mm, 34mm, etc. of different scopes hence the number of rings to number of bases then to match base distances. Frustrating.
One day I’ll put them all in a better single system with a catalog of which go on which rifle than rely on memory of rifle & record the sighting differences. I now use a small sticker on a scope to recall the different POI using different bullet types for that particular rifle, i.e., soft point versus solid versus all copper as a reminder or primer. Otherwise I’ll have to be in constant wonder about what I did, as this Explanation is becoming.
Heck, scopes costs are at times more than a rifle and reticles more complicated than they need to be and I like some of my older scopes and now unique simple reticles.

 

[stonecreek]

If you have some wall room you can take a simple 1 x 2 or 1 x 3 piece of hardwood with three inch screws protruding about 2.25" and spaced about 2.5" apart. Screw the hardwood strip to the studs in the wall. The stocks hang by placing the magazine cuts on the screws. Here is the example I made which hangs conveniently in the space above a 5-foot tall safe.

 

[Reg]

Where do you get spare stocks?

 

[Spaher]

Stonecreek, I really like your system as to simplicity, cost & easy to assemble. I like learning something new every day… thanks