• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

Short Actions What have I got?

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

Recently purchased a really nice .222 Sako but don’t know how to determine model #. The right action side has “Made in Finland” and Bofors Steel on barrel. The left side has SAKO Riihimaki, N:eek: 50 ***, the top of the barrel in front of action has Cal.. and another stamping that is similar to the letter c. There is also a detachable magazine marked “Cal.222”. The Monte Carlo walnut stock is nicely checkered with wide/flat forearm having front and rear sling mounts. The rifle has an inexpensive scope mounted and the previous owner removed the shroud and front sight. The front sight ramp is still attached but there is, of course, not a rear sight. I’m assuming the rear sight was removed for scope base. The bolt handle and receiver have matching serial #. The bluing is 99.9% and stock about the same for scratches or dings. I am new to Sako ownership so any and all information would be welcomed.
 
Recently purchased a really nice .222 Sako but don’t know how to determine model #. The right action side has “Made in Finland” and Bofors Steel on barrel. The left side has SAKO Riihimaki, N:eek: 50 ***, the top of the barrel in front of action has Cal.. and another stamping that is similar to the letter c. There is also a detachable magazine marked “Cal.222”. The Monte Carlo walnut stock is nicely checkered with wide/flat forearm having front and rear sling mounts. The rifle has an inexpensive scope mounted and the previous owner removed the shroud and front sight. The front sight ramp is still attached but there is, of course, not a rear sight. I’m assuming the rear sight was removed for scope base. The bolt handle and receiver have matching serial #. The bluing is 99.9% and stock about the same for scratches or dings. I am new to Sako ownership so any and all information would be welcomed.
Sounds very much like an L46, you have a lovely rifle that is a delight to shoot. I have one in 222 and it is my go to work gun on the farm down here in Queensland Australia. I think I am on my 5th barrel but I am losing count.
 
It is a Model L46, probably from the late 1950's. Yours did not have a rear sight as it could be used with the optional Sako rear peep that attached to the rear action bridge dovetail. Riihimaki is the name of the town the Sako plant is located. Sako didn't stamp most of the L46's with that model designation as for many years it was the only model they made. Your serial number falls within the range the club has factory records for, so you can click on "Factory Records Service" in the black bar on top of this page. Pics would tell us more, especially if the scope was mounted properly in the dovetails or butchered up by a Bubba. "Wide/flat forearm" indicates it could be a Varmint model. Check the forum section on Sako short actions (L46) to learn more. Welcome to our club!
 
Thanks for replying. One other question I would like to know if the barrel should float on this rifle? It appears to have been bedded from the factory. I have several other rifles with after market stocks and they all float.
I hope I can upload all pics for your viewing. If you spot anything significant please reply. I’m hopeful I can acquire replacement parts for those missing.
Has a crisp with no creep 2# trigger pull.
Again Thanks for all replies! 87F0C244-94AF-43C7-B585-164F547FBF42.jpeg A1430F97-6473-4F2E-BDD3-98594C0946D8.jpeg DF1946CF-E3D5-4D09-B560-7548E5FEBE9C.jpeg 8EF762F8-FC82-4528-B342-FE7DA1A544F2.jpeg 88726EBA-211B-477F-9D6E-FA9EC6B3117C.jpeg D6397BC8-7363-4D28-9215-93A01789CD79.jpeg ABDCBE92-5B05-4597-9713-C244A41176CD.jpeg 96B5C41F-4374-434E-8741-89BF389E66DA.jpeg E1B7FA12-AEF7-454F-983C-CC7D232F1C27.jpeg 468041B1-F16D-4D3F-BB1B-EF7637ECB335.jpeg CF8C96D8-0B9E-49A0-B421-19400D743974.jpeg 4232AAA6-C53D-4120-8B6B-79751DF1F36D.jpeg 618E540B-5A5C-48F1-AC8E-0BB075E4B857.jpeg 51E93A63-521E-42E3-9DAC-41217A17CB83.jpeg 841511DE-C35B-4EFF-9565-5AD88266B000.jpeg 0DF41AA5-F831-45F4-B3FF-2532FEA092DD.jpeg 0978AFCA-9579-4888-8B69-A2CDF2177B51.jpeg 49B35CF7-2562-47D7-B450-5AD1D2EDA3BE.jpeg 30B8BA2C-8DC6-49CE-BE90-CAFC08382E8A.jpeg 3170BD02-98B9-441A-8E9B-AF6F487060F8.jpeg 87F0C244-94AF-43C7-B585-164F547FBF42.jpeg 87F0C244-94AF-43C7-B585-164F547FBF42.jpeg A1430F97-6473-4F2E-BDD3-98594C0946D8.jpeg DF1946CF-E3D5-4D09-B560-7548E5FEBE9C.jpeg 8EF762F8-FC82-4528-B342-FE7DA1A544F2.jpeg 88726EBA-211B-477F-9D6E-FA9EC6B3117C.jpeg D6397BC8-7363-4D28-9215-93A01789CD79.jpeg ABDCBE92-5B05-4597-9713-C244A41176CD.jpeg 96B5C41F-4374-434E-8741-89BF389E66DA.jpeg E1B7FA12-AEF7-454F-983C-CC7D232F1C27.jpeg 468041B1-F16D-4D3F-BB1B-EF7637ECB335.jpeg CF8C96D8-0B9E-49A0-B421-19400D743974.jpeg 4232AAA6-C53D-4120-8B6B-79751DF1F36D.jpeg 618E540B-5A5C-48F1-AC8E-0BB075E4B857.jpeg 51E93A63-521E-42E3-9DAC-41217A17CB83.jpeg 841511DE-C35B-4EFF-9565-5AD88266B000.jpeg 0DF41AA5-F831-45F4-B3FF-2532FEA092DD.jpeg 0978AFCA-9579-4888-8B69-A2CDF2177B51.jpeg 49B35CF7-2562-47D7-B450-5AD1D2EDA3BE.jpeg 30B8BA2C-8DC6-49CE-BE90-CAFC08382E8A.jpeg 3170BD02-98B9-441A-8E9B-AF6F487060F8.jpeg 87F0C244-94AF-43C7-B585-164F547FBF42.jpeg A1430F97-6473-4F2E-BDD3-98594C0946D8.jpeg DF1946CF-E3D5-4D09-B560-7548E5FEBE9C.jpeg 8EF762F8-FC82-4528-B342-FE7DA1A544F2.jpeg 88726EBA-211B-477F-9D6E-FA9EC6B3117C.jpeg D6397BC8-7363-4D28-9215-93A01789CD79.jpeg ABDCBE92-5B05-4597-9713-C244A41176CD.jpeg 96B5C41F-4374-434E-8741-89BF389E66DA.jpeg E1B7FA12-AEF7-454F-983C-CC7D232F1C27.jpeg 468041B1-F16D-4D3F-BB1B-EF7637ECB335.jpeg CF8C96D8-0B9E-49A0-B421-19400D743974.jpeg 4232AAA6-C53D-4120-8B6B-79751DF1F36D.jpeg 618E540B-5A5C-48F1-AC8E-0BB075E4B857.jpeg 51E93A63-521E-42E3-9DAC-41217A17CB83.jpeg 841511DE-C35B-4EFF-9565-5AD88266B000.jpeg 0DF41AA5-F831-45F4-B3FF-2532FEA092DD.jpeg 0978AFCA-9579-4888-8B69-A2CDF2177B51.jpeg 49B35CF7-2562-47D7-B450-5AD1D2EDA3BE.jpeg 30B8BA2C-8DC6-49CE-BE90-CAFC08382E8A.jpeg 3170BD02-98B9-441A-8E9B-AF6F487060F8.jpeg
 
It is the Varmint model with the beavertail forearm & heavier barrel contour. Looks like someone has sanded away the inletting at the forearm tip that had the original Sako pressure point, then realized they made a mistake & added a glass bed pressure point in an attempt to restore accuracy. The glass bedding is not factory. All Sakos are precisely inletted & fitted without any glass bedding. Like all rifles that are nearly 70 years old & have been out of production for 60 years, parts can be problematic.
 
It is the Varmint model with the beavertail forearm & heavier barrel contour. Looks like someone has sanded away the inletting at the forearm tip that had the original Sako pressure point, then realized they made a mistake & added a glass bed pressure point in an attempt to restore accuracy. The glass bedding is not factory. All Sakos are precisely inletted & fitted without any glass bedding. Like all rifles that are nearly 70 years old & have been out of production for 60 years, parts can be problematic.
Can this bedding problem be corrected?
 
Why do you think there is a "bedding problem"? Looks to be a nice professional bedding job & I would expect the rifle to shoot just fine. Glass bedding, if done properly, usually improves things. Seems it would be prudent to shoot it first before doing anything?
 
Why do you think there is a "bedding problem"? Looks to be a nice professional bedding job & I would expect the rifle to shoot just fine. Glass bedding, if done properly, usually improves things. Seems it would be prudent to shoot it first before doing anything?
You are correct, I should and will shoot to see if there is a significant grouping difference. The reason I have concern is because the barrel is touching and has some pressure at the end of the forearm. I thought maybe the stock had maybe been exposed to moisture and maybe had some warping or swelling.
I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. I can tell you are quite knowledgeable.
 
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The reason I have concern is because the barrel is touching and has some pressure at the end of the forearm. I thought maybe the stock had maybe been exposed to moisture and maybe had some warping or swelling.

Let the barrel go ahead and touch! It was designed to, Sako used that contact point to dampen harmonics. Looks almost like the Smith may have understood this already. It does appear to be clean and well done. I’d take it out for a spin first..won’t be surprised it shoots dime size groups .. your gonna like it. I have a real early L46 Sporter , 70 years old, that had some issues I had to have smithed up to shoot properly. It shoots extremely well as a result. Congratulations and enjoy!

bloo
 
*UPDATE*
I got to my range a couple of days during this beautiful fall season and was able shoot the Triple Duce. Made a couple of minor adjustments to the scope at 25yds and then fired a few 5 shot groups at 100yds. I’m posting two best. I’m more than pleased. I was shooting Remington factory ammo, 50gr pointed soft point.
 

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