Sako 75 Finnlight 300WSM Advice Needed

[LoneWolf72]

Greeting! I'm new to the forum and new to Sakos, but I am familiar with their reputation. I was hoping the experienced members of this group could give me some advice and information regarding a rifle I have stumbled upon. I currently own a Browning A-Bolt II Composite Stalker 30-06 that has been my go-to rifle for deer and elk. Given that I will be doing more elk hunting, I was considering stepping up to a magnum, namely a Tikka T3 Lite in 7mm RM. However, today I walked into a local gun shop and found what I believe is a Sako 75 Finnlight that is in good shape in 300WSM. The action was stamped "Sako SM" and it was a fluted SS barrel/action with a black synthetic stock with gray grip panels. I had not considered a Sako since they are frankly out of my budget. However, I was shocked to see that this rifle was marked down from $899 to $500!! This got my attention to say the least...

I did not purchase this rifle because I did not know what I was getting myself into (not an impulse buyer), but I am now kicking myself now that I have seen that these rifles easily go $800-$1000 or more USED. My biggest concern is buying a lemon. Is this too good to be true? I figure the action and parts are worth that much if it is a functioning rifle that may have some accuracy issues.

Are there any issues I should be concerned with this model rifle before purchasing? I am a little concerned about the punishing recoil of a 300WSM in such a light rifle. That said, I have shot Brownings in 300WM and found them manageable for short strings of fire, although not comfortable (I am not particularly recoil sensitive). Since I reload, I figure that I could "download" the 300WSM or use lighter projectiles to tame the recoil. Or just flip the rifle and sell it if it doesn't work out for me, since it seems like a deal I should not pass up.

Are there any other considerations I should make with this rifle, such as reloading for it or buying rings/mounts, or restocking, etc.? Is this action a good host for rebarreling to another caliber? If so, what calibers?

I am thinking of showing up at the shop 1st thing in the morning to buy this rifle, so this is a spur-of-the moment purchase. I am hoping you all could cut down on my research time. Thank you for any information that you could give me before purchasing this rifle.

 

[David_S]

Sounds like a 75 or 85 Finnlight. I have both in 270WSM and they are fine practical rifles but there are some things you should be aware off.

First, a magnum cartridge in a lightweight rifle will be frisky. They need to be held firmly to control muzzle jump and recoil. I have fitted brakes and limbsavers to mine and this has made a big difference.

Second, the barrels heat up quickly so that after 4 or 5 shots accuracy deteriorates. Not a problem when hunting but at the range you need to allow the barrel to cool after every 3-shot group or so.

Third, WSMs (at least the 270) can be difficult feeders. The 75 more so than the 85. I had a gunsmith work over the 75 and it is much improved - works best with a forceful action. See if you can try it with a dummy cartridge before you buy.

Fourth, accuracy is sub-moa with the right load and the right shooting technique. Both rifles responded well to bedding. Initially we had some double grouping but eliminated this via bedding, fore-end stabilisation and improved shooting technique. These rifles do not tolerate poor shooting habits. Accuracy seems to improve with a little copper fouling (up to 30 shots) before falling off. First shot from a clean barrel on my rifles is about 1" left of normal POI so I generally fire a fouling shot before reaching my hunting area.

Reloading is pretty straightforward. Best to use high quality cases such as Norma or Lapua. (Winchester split after a couple of reloads.) Full length sizing is generally best. I do necksize but you have to bump the shoulder back with a body die periodically or you will find the action won't close. Been caught a couple of times. With the 75 you will find you will be seating the bullet some distance off the lands to fit the magazine.

Sako one piece optilock rings are a good mount for scopes up to 50mm objective (just). Check the heights of the dovetails are the same - see my thread on misaligned ones on my 85.

Hope these comments help. Good luck. David

 

[LoneWolf72]

David,

Thank you for your thoughtful reply. I went back to the shop and the gun was still there. After speaking with the gunsmith, I pounced on the deal for the Sako 75! What I found out was that the gun belonged to the owner of the gunshop and had less then 100 rounds through it. I had a friend (fellow Sako owner) look the gun over with a bore scope. He described the barrel as "pristine".

As far as installing a muzzlebrake, the smith stated that he felt there would not be enough "meat" left on the barrel after threading, and probably would not recommend installing a brake. He claimed that the barrel wall thickness would be too thin on a .30 caliber once threaded. What type of brake are you using?

I am excited to get this rifle out to the range and see what it can do. Unfortunately, I still need to procure some rings and bases in order to mount a scope. Do you recommend any other ring/base besides the expensive Sako Optilocks? Not sure I want to stray away from the factory mounting system by drilling and tapping for another type of mount. I also need to develop a load for this rifle, so if you have any suggestions for powder/projectiles/other components, I would appreciate it. I will primarily be using this rifle to hunt elk in Utah, but may also try it on mule deer if I sell off my Browning A-Bolt 30-06 to fund this project. Thanks.

Sounds like a 75 or 85 Finnlight. I have both in 270WSM and they are fine practical rifles but there are some things you should be aware off.

First, a magnum cartridge in a lightweight rifle will be frisky. They need to be held firmly to control muzzle jump and recoil. I have fitted brakes and limbsavers to mine and this has made a big difference.

Second, the barrels heat up quickly so that after 4 or 5 shots accuracy deteriorates. Not a problem when hunting but at the range you need to allow the barrel to cool after every 3-shot group or so.

Third, WSMs (at least the 270) can be difficult feeders. The 75 more so than the 85. I had a gunsmith work over the 75 and it is much improved - works best with a forceful action. See if you can try it with a dummy cartridge before you buy.

Fourth, accuracy is sub-moa with the right load and the right shooting technique. Both rifles responded well to bedding. Initially we had some double grouping but eliminated this via bedding, fore-end stabilisation and improved shooting technique. These rifles do not tolerate poor shooting habits. Accuracy seems to improve with a little copper fouling (up to 30 shots) before falling off. First shot from a clean barrel on my rifles is about 1" left of normal POI so I generally fire a fouling shot before reaching my hunting area.

Reloading is pretty straightforward. Best to use high quality cases such as Norma or Lapua. (Winchester split after a couple of reloads.) Full length sizing is generally best. I do necksize but you have to bump the shoulder back with a body die periodically or you will find the action won't close. Been caught a couple of times. With the 75 you will find you will be seating the bullet some distance off the lands to fit the magazine.

Sako one piece optilock rings are a good mount for scopes up to 50mm objective (just). Check the heights of the dovetails are the same - see my thread on misaligned ones on my 85.

Hope these comments help. Good luck. David

 

[David_S]

Lonewolf, I am pleased to be of some help. I think you will grow to like the 75 the more you use it.

I am away from home for a couple of days so can't respond fully to your queries. When I get back I will measure the muzzle thread on my 75 and the remaining barrel thickness and post a photo for you. I can't see there being a lot of difference between a .270 and a .30 cal.

The one piece Sako Optilock rings are good, look nice on the 75 and match the Sako dovetails. I also like the spherical plastic inserts which align the scope tube without lapping, but as you say are expensive. Burris signature rings also utilise plastic inserts and have a good reputation here but I have not used them.

The 270 WSM likes the slower powders such as ADI 2213SC (Hodgdon 4831SC) though I have used ADI 2209 (Hodgdon 4350). For a discussion of bullets, powders and the 300 WSM generally visit

http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/.300+Winchester+Short+Magnum.html

The comments on brakes and suppressors are interesting. That whole site is worth browsing if you have the time - there is a wealth of practical experience behind it. See my PM

Before you fire the 75 I suggest you check out the recoil lug. From memory it is fastened with a couple of screws which can work loose at least they did on mine causing erratic groups.

David

 

[LoneWolf72]

Again, great information! I'm liking it more and more every day, and I haven't even shot it yet. I like the feel, balance and weight of the rifle as well as the slick action. Small touches like the palm swell in the stock are really nice. The trigger breaking at 2 3/4 pounds is a bonus.

A friend of mine also has a Sako 75 and has decided to send me an old set of Leupold rings and bases. Not sure if that is the way I want to go, but it will allow me to mount a scope sooner than later so I can test the rifle for function and accuracy. I have a set of the Burris Signature Zee rings with inserts on my Browning 30-06 and am really impressed with how robust they are for the money. Can these be mounted to the sako bases. I've heard several suggest to try Talley rings/bases as an alternative to the Optilocks.

The initial recommendation from the gunsmith was to look into H-1000 and H-4831SC for powders, as well as the 168 Berger VLD Hunter or possibly the 178 Hornady ELD-X.

As far as the Ballistic Studies website...this is great information and I have referred to the website in the past regarding other other rifles I own.

Safe travels!

Lonewolf, I am pleased to be of some help. I think you will grow to like the 75 the more you use it.

I am away from home for a couple of days so can't respond fully to your queries. When I get back I will measure the muzzle thread on my 75 and the remaining barrel thickness and post a photo for you. I can't see there being a lot of difference between a .270 and a .30 cal.

The one piece Sako Optilock rings are good, look nice on the 75 and match the Sako dovetails. I also like the spherical plastic inserts which align the scope tube without lapping, but as you say are expensive. Burris signature rings also utilise plastic inserts and have a good reputation here but I have not used them.

The 270 WSM likes the slower powders such as ADI 2213SC (Hodgdon 4831SC) though I have used ADI 2209 (Hodgdon 4350). For a discussion of bullets, powders and the 300 WSM generally visit

The comments on brakes and suppressors are interesting. That whole site is worth browsing if you have the time - there is a wealth of practical experience behind it. See my PM

Before you fire the 75 I suggest you check out the recoil lug. From memory it is fastened with a couple of screws which can work loose at least they did on mine causing erratic groups.

David

 

[David_S]

Lonewolf. Here are some pointers which may be of help with your new rifle

1) Trigger adjustment

The trigger breaking at 2 3/4 pounds is a bonus.

The triggers on the Sako 75s are readily adjustable with a 2.5mm (I think it is) allen key inserted through the back of the magazine well after removing mag. (See photo below) I think it can be set as low as 1.25lb. I have set mine at 1.75lb, the same as my 85s though they do have a set trigger. I find the light trigger pull a help in accuracy with these frisky lightweights. Dogmatists will say this is too light for a hunting rifle but I have not had any problems and in any case never hunt with a bullet "up the spout" and safety on. (Edit - The photo shows the barrel removed from the action to show the adjuster, but you don't have to do this to make an adjustment. Just remove the magazine)



2) Brake and barrel threading
Here are some photos of my brake and barrel threading. The brake is aluminium (also available at twice the price in titanium) and 60mm loa (45mm perforated and 15mm threaded). It weighs about18gm. The thread is 1/2" UNEF x 28tpi. I have measured the dia at the base of the thread at about 11.7mm. With a 270 bore of 7mm that leaves 4.7mm of "meat" in the barrel i.e 2.35mm thickness. With a 300 WSM and 7.62mm bore you will only have 4.1mm and 2.05mm. Your gunsmith may well be right but don't forget that the threaded portion of the barrel has a "reinforcing band" around it in the form of the brake. I don't think you will have a problem if you use a fine thread but I suggest you consult a brake fabricator. Fitting a brake to my 75 affected both group size and POI. Increasing the charge slightly returned it to sub MOA.







3) The recoil lug.
Here is a photo of the recoil lug and the screw (a single allen screw) which worked loose on my rifle. I suggest you check yours and maybe loctite it in place.




4) Projectiles and reloading
I can't really advise on projectiles but I would be tempted to try the ELD-X. I have been quite impressed with the 6.5 version so far. When working up a load I recommend you experiment with seating depths. You won't be able to seat anywhere near the lands. My 75 has definite "sweet" spots. With one load the group tightened up from 1.4MOA to 0.8MOA just by changing the distance off lands. Currently I seat 130gr SSTs 4.3mm off the lands. However, you may encounter problems seating the ELD-X projectile. Their sleek profile may mean they have to be seated quite deep (so I have found in my 260) just to fit the magazine.

I have used Winchester WLRM primers successfully but am switching to CCI 250 as I had (along with quite a few others) a string of primer blowouts with their WLR primers. Taken together with split cases in the WSM I have, sadly, lost confidence in Winchester.

5) Rings and mounts
Here is a photo of my Sako 75 with one-piece Optilocks and Zeiss scope. They all go together neatly. But I am sure other rings/bases would work as well but probably not as pretty. BTW the pink ribbon is not just a pretty ornament but a reminder to my son and I to thoroughly clean the barrel before firing with meths or brake cleaner as it is currently lubed with "diff oil". Sadly, the 75 does not get as much use as my two 85s and diff oil is great for protection but not good to shoot over! Most commercial oils are very light presumably to avoid litigation should anyone shoot over them.



I hope you get something useful out of these thoughts - David

 

[d500lnn]

I have a finnlight in 300 wsm. It was finicky until I did two things

Have the rifle pillar glass bedded by an excellent smith
Put a quality scope with generous eye relief. That rifle is very radical in terms of recoil. I'm just not a fan of brakes. Way too much noise for me.

After those two things and finally reloading for the rifle, it shoots pretty darn well. Hot or cold(in regards to barrel). I'd never over shoot a barrel, but heating them up every so often ain't gonna hurt them.

You stole that rifle at $500. Is it a 75 or 85? Either way, Cha Ching for you sir. Great find.

 

[d500lnn]

Lonewolf. Here are some pointers which may be of help with your new rifle

1) Trigger adjustment



The triggers on the Sako 75s are readily adjustable with a 2.5mm (I think it is) allen key inserted through the back of the magazine well after removing mag. (See photo below) I think it can be set as low as 1.25lb. I have set mine at 1.75lb, the same as my 85s though they do have a set trigger. I find the light trigger pull a help in accuracy with these frisky lightweights. Dogmatists will say this is too light for a hunting rifle but I have not had any problems and in any case never hunt with a bullet "up the spout" and safety on. (Edit - The photo shows the barrel removed from the action to show the adjuster, but you don't have to do this to make an adjustment. Just remove the magazine)

View attachment 11051

2) Brake and barrel threading
Here are some photos of my brake and barrel threading. The brake is aluminium (also available at twice the price in titanium) and 60mm loa (45mm perforated and 15mm threaded). It weighs about18gm. The thread is 1/2" UNEF x 28tpi. I have measured the dia at the base of the thread at about 11.7mm. With a 270 bore of 7mm that leaves 4.7mm of "meat" in the barrel i.e 2.35mm thickness. With a 300 WSM and 7.62mm bore you will only have 4.1mm and 2.05mm. Your gunsmith may well be right but don't forget that the threaded portion of the barrel has a "reinforcing band" around it in the form of the brake. I don't think you will have a problem if you use a fine thread but I suggest you consult a brake fabricator. Fitting a brake to my 75 affected both group size and POI. Increasing the charge slightly returned it to sub MOA.

View attachment 11052

View attachment 11053

View attachment 11054

3) The recoil lug.
Here is a photo of the recoil lug and the screw (a single allen screw) which worked loose on my rifle. I suggest you check yours and maybe loctite it in place.

View attachment 11056


4) Projectiles and reloading
I can't really advise on projectiles but I would be tempted to try the ELD-X. I have been quite impressed with the 6.5 version so far. When working up a load I recommend you experiment with seating depths. You won't be able to seat anywhere near the lands. My 75 has definite "sweet" spots. With one load the group tightened up from 1.4MOA to 0.8MOA just by changing the distance off lands. Currently I seat 130gr SSTs 4.3mm off the lands. However, you may encounter problems seating the ELD-X projectile. Their sleek profile may mean they have to be seated quite deep (so I have found in my 260) just to fit the magazine.

I have used Winchester WLRM primers successfully but am switching to CCI 250 as I had (along with quite a few others) a string of primer blowouts with their WLR primers. Taken together with split cases in the WSM I have, sadly, lost confidence in Winchester.

5) Rings and mounts
Here is a photo of my Sako 75 with one-piece Optilocks and Zeiss scope. They all go together neatly. But I am sure other rings/bases would work as well but probably not as pretty. BTW the pink ribbon is not just a pretty ornament but a reminder to my son and I to thoroughly clean the barrel before firing with meths or brake cleaner as it is currently lubed with "diff oil". Sadly, the 75 does not get as much use as my two 85s and diff oil is great for protection but not good to shoot over! Most commercial oils are very light presumably to avoid litigation should anyone shoot over them.

View attachment 11055

I hope you get something useful out of these thoughts - David

David is this a 3-9x40 or 3.5-10x44? I like the looks of the one piece mounts. Are the mounts Lows or extra Lows? I thought they only came in one height.

 

[David_S]

David is this a 3-9x40 or 3.5-10x44? I like the looks of the one piece mounts. Are the mounts Lows or extra Lows? I thought they only came in one height.

It is a 3.5-10x44 Zeiss and the mounts are low mounts. You are correct about the Optilock Ringmounts only coming in Lows. I attach Sako's Data Sheet. As you can see they come in Blue or Stainless in either 25mm or 30mm dia.

In fact the mounts are not that low. If you look at page 5 of my post "85 Finnlight starts out on life" http://www.sakocollectors.com/forum/threads/85-finnlight-starts-out-on-life.8510/page-5 there is a photo of my 260 fitted with a Swarovski Z3 4-12x50 using the 25mm Ringmounts. The 50mm objective fits nicely but I had to file a small nick in the scope covers to get them to fit. No such problem with the Zeiss' 44mm objective. I think the barrel profiles of the 75 and 85 Finnlights are similar if not actually the same. (I have a Z3 mounted on my 85 270WSM also.) - David