Sako Upward Pressure in 1979 AV

[Deleted member 14372]

Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Deleted member 14372]

One more Q: is your barrel floated at the tip? If not is there a bump at the tip to apply upward pressure or is it smooth ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bloorooster]

Maybe the phrase upward pressure has caused some confusion..somewhere. Let’s think about it in another way perhaps.
Of all the vintage period Sako rifles I’ve hand my hands on, and disassembled, I’ve never witnessed or observed any type of hump, bump or lump at the tip of the forearm. The most I have noticed is a bit of a darkened shine or polishing at the end of the barrel channel. This shine or polishing is , I believe, from the barrel contact and is a result of time and vibration during the many shots the rifle has fired.
This contact patch is flat and follows same cylindrical plane of the entire barrel channel. It is only a light touching contact point , no real pressure is involved. It’s not a spring loaded pressure from a raised hump or pressure ramp in the channel, and no spring type or fulcrum driven release will be felt as one loosens the action screws. It’s a vibration dampening contact area that settles or mutes the barrels harmonic vibrations and resonance, having a similar effect as the Sims Vibration Laboratory damper , a weighted rubber donut collet hickeymajig seen on some guns today. You can simulate the same by simply wrapping your hand around the barrel or pressing your thumb against it during the shot. Much like a pipe in your hand..it will only chime when you drop it free to the table top. If you hold it in your hand and tap it on the table , the chime will be dampened by the contact of your hand. Like a muted guitar string! The term upward pressure maybe should be explained better as lower barrel contact.
Icebear touched upon harmonics earlier during this thread. Harmonics or harmonic dampening are the reason the contact of wood and steel is present.
There will be no hump or bump found.
Hope this helps
Edit: Icebear’s comments on harmonics are on a different post of the same subject…my bad

bloo

 

[Bucktote]

Gentlemen,
Allow me to enter in on a scary subject!! "I think I remember" seeing a post about there being 4 pounds lift up pressure on older Sako rifle barrels at the barrel end aprox last 2". I have used those rubber like doughnuts on several rifle barrels in the past. Can't say if they helped or not with any confidence. I restocked my AV with a nicely figured stock and will float the barrel as it needs a little more wood taken out of the barrel channel at the tip end. When a person buys a rifle most do not have any idea of what takes place in the shooting, zeroing. bullet & scope selection. factory or handload selection. All these things I have learned by being allowed to become a member of this forum. I think the German way of allowing a person to hunt has a lot of merrit as a lot of study & work is required to get a hunting liscense there. I thank all of you that have been so kind as to educate an old guy. You see the average guy, is like the "China Virus" We didn't know what we didn't know!! Thank you all. B/T

 

[bloorooster]

4 ounces maybe
4 pounds of force or pressure between the forearm and the barrel, would be very obvious during disassembly. Not mention splitting the stock at the bedding/anchor points..I would never try it..ever

edit: at least with a factory vintage stock..ever

 

[Deleted member 14372]

I have two Ruger No 1bs. They have humps at the tip to exert upward pressure. Some guys sand them off to float the barrel. That is why I thought Sako would have done the same. I believe Remington did something like that too. Thanks for straightening me out.

It seemed to me that if I tap the stock and it rattles that the barrel would chatter against it during the shot and cause vertical stringing rather than dampening and that increasing the pressure a bit might help.

Thanks for all the input.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[icebear]

I have two Ruger No 1bs. They have humps at the tip to exert upward pressure.

In researching how to improvet the accuracy of my Ruger No. 1A, I found a very popular modification that a lot of people swear by. The forend on the Ruger is attached to a hanger that floats below the barrel. The fix is to install a metal shim at the front of the hanger to couple the hanger and the barrel and thereby dampen the vibration and reduce the amplitude of the harmonics. I think the original shim was a coin - maybe a penny or a dime. I'm planning to flatten a lead sinker in a vise, as the soft lead will conform better. You then float the wood forend completely - no contact with the barrel at all. Supposedly this is a magic fix. I haven't gotten around to trying it yet, but there were an awful lot of testimonials that it worked. Now, the 1-B has a heavier barrel and a longer and heavier forend, so the magic formula may be different for it.

 

[Deleted member 14372]

I read about those fixes too. I had a gunsmith install a Hicks Accurizer. Same concept. They also have long throats. Loading for my 257 1b now trying to reach the lands


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bushcaddy]

I read as many old posts as I could before posting this. If it already answered let me know.

It seems the older Sakos were built and bedded with upward pressure. My AV has small gaps along the sides of the barrel but none under the tip. It allows la .001 shim under it that gets a little sticky near the tip suggesting some pressure there. When I tap the underside of the forearm there it “rattles” a bit indicating the tip is not so tight against the barrel. When I squeeze the stock and barrel together the “rattling” is deadened.

I opened her up and there is no obvious pressure bump. Smooth barrel channel back to front.

It shoots pretty good but had some vertical stringing yesterday. Wondering if this is supposed to be floated (given the gaps on the sides ) or if it needs a bump / shim near the tip.

I don’t want to alter this rifle but might add a shim if it is indicated

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bushcaddy]

I read about those fixes too. I had a gunsmith install a Hicks Accurizer. Same concept. They also have long throats. Loading for my 257 1b now trying to reach the lands


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have just discovered something new.. to me. I have just purchased a sako AV (1979) that has a barrel channel with a long thin tapered ridge that starts just ahead of the recoil Lug mortise- dead center in the barrel channel. It is tapered from about 2mm to zero and extends about 5 " long. It is obviously a factory thing. Does anyone know if Sako adopted this method of free floating. I think it likely is., just have not seen or heard of this method before .

 

[paulsonconstruction]

I have just discovered something new.. to me. I have just purchased a sako AV (1979) that has a barrel channel with a long thin tapered ridge that starts just ahead of the recoil Lug mortise- dead center in the barrel channel. It is tapered from about 2mm to zero and extends about 5 " long. It is obviously a factory thing. Does anyone know if Sako adopted this method of free floating. I think it likely is., just have not seen or heard of this method before .

What you are seeing is a tool mark left by the router used to inlet the barrel channel. The router makes two passes to inlet the barrel channel & where the channel is wider it leaves a small ridge of wood down the center as the router bit has a round bottom. It shouldn't touch the barrel.