• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

Crushed Pads Replaced

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

They look great. You're giving me ideas here for my old .308 Deluxe. Did you install the pads yourself?
 
Good looking rifle Misako. The difference in longevity between the two pads is pretty amazing
Deerhunter-The Deluxe I use now for my #1 Gun has a decent soft pad on it now and it is the original Sako pad from 1963. Amazing and unique at the same time. Luck of the draw
 
They look great. You're giving me ideas here for my old .308 Deluxe. Did you install the pads yourself?
Iwanna-I never installed a pad on a rifle until the 1990s. A good smith did a better job then and still would today
 
I bought a cheap "mini" belt grinder at Harbor Freight that uses a belt about an inch wide. It does a pretty decent job on a grind-to-fit pad, but it's always a challenge to keep from scarring the finish of the adjacent wood. Does anyone have a better wood protector than a couple of layers of masking tape? The masking tape helps, but is too easily penetrated.
 
I put a couple of small nicks in the wood with the belt sander when I did one. No big deal on a $10.00 gun. I've heard that the best way is with a wood shaper--the bigger the disk the better.
 
Muffler repair tape (not the easiest stuff to find) is great. I'm currently using three layers of duct tape, all different colors, so I can see if I'm cutting through a layer of tape.
 
I install on the stock with screws and mark with a very sharp pencil . Then I remove it and use a hand held belt sander to get it close. Then I reinstall and use a block sander and finish it by hand. Slow messy process but it works for me. I use two layers of 2" quality masking tape to protect the stock.-Misako
 
Muffler repair tape (not the easiest stuff to find) is great. I'm currently using three layers of duct tape, all different colors, so I can see if I'm cutting through a layer of tape.
Yeah, that stuff used to be quite common when the auto inspection process was more "informal". I would think that the adhesive on it might damage the stock finish if you didn't put a layer of masking tape under it.

I've used the multi-color masking tape layers in the same way. It is somewhat helpful.
 
The description states it to be a factory pad. It should say Sako on it not Old English. I do think it is the same except for the brand name. I have a black one just like it. That is a Safari Grade Classic but I have not heard it called a deluxe until the seller stated as such.-Misako
 
This is from our beloved administrator L61R posted 4/22/14.

That sounds right! Sako used Pachmeyer Old English pads on the Safari model. I had one of those in .338 with the same pad.

Jim
 

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