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looking for factory ammo recommendation for Sako 85 M finnlight 30.06

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

Jaymann

Member
Hello All,
my name is Jay. I am new to the forum and shooting sports.
I
recently purchased an Sako 85 M finnlight 30.06. i use low optilock rings and the scope is Sawrovski Z6i 1.7-10X42.
I use Sako superhammerhead 180 and 150gr bullets and i get .5 inch group at 50 yards and 3 inch group at 100 yards.
I am here to get some help with chosing the best ammunition for better accuracy. so any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks !!
Jay
 
It's impossible to predict how any particular ammo will perform in any particular rifle. All you can do is buy several different brands/types/loads & compare them under the same conditions from a clean barrel.
 
thankyou for the suggestions gentlemen.
But I am looking for more specific anwers like: 180 grain interlock SP american whitetail by Hornady.
the whole purpose of me contacting this forum is to remove as much guess work as possible, as i dont get to go to the range that often.
thanks again.
 
There is no way to know that.

The idea is that premium ammos should shoot closer groups, but I haven't found that to be universally true. I'd start with Core-Lokt (2-3 groups), Nosler Accubond (2-3 groups), etc. Once you get a 1 1/2" group at 100 yards, you go hunting. Since it's a .30-06, you should be able to get together with some other folks and share a couple boxes, if money is tight.
 
i assumed Sako ammunition will work best in sako rifle and bought 8 boxes. now i am unhappy with the 3 inch group at 100 yards and feel i should have bought 8 different types of ammunition instead.
 
Jaymann

My brother-in-law . . . has a Sako A7 25-05 that shot like a dream . . . and he did not clean the barrel for seven years . . . he had some free time and he shot it for group and it was lousy . . . so he bought a bore snake . . . and used it on the A7 . . . and it now shoots like it did before.

Any Sako that has not been abused . . . will shoot better than 3 inches.
 
Listen to Paul, it is impossible to accurately predict how a particular load will shoot in a particular rifle.

Having said that; I've had best results with factory loads from Remington. Get a box of 150's from Remington, Hornady and Winchester, maybe even Federal, and shoot a 5 shot group with each, Obviously shoot a clean and cool barrel.

That should tell you what your rifle likes. GENERALLY it is easier to get better groups with lighter (shorter) bullets BUT NOT ALWAYS!!

If you are stuck on 180's or 165's, then buy a box of each from different brands and shoot a 5 shot group.

Plan on a full day at the range (assuming you don't have your own place to shoot), make sure you have a steady rest, and eliminate every variable you can.

Lastly, (First actually) make sure the action is tight in the stock and the barrel is free-floated.
 
i did clean my rifle using boresnake between every three shots to keep it consistent.
The fastest way I know of to ruin a perfectly good rifle bore is to run a bore snake thru it!! Educate yourself on how to properly clean a rifle bore & get the proper tools to do it & your rifle will serve you well for many years. Continue using that bore snake & you will continue to be disappointed. Assuming anything about what ammo will work best in your rifle is folly. 3" groups in any Sako, assuming no scope, mounts, bedding, or other mechanical problems, indicates a fouled bore or shooter error. As .5" groups at 50 yards translates to a 1" group at 100 something needs corrected. Best of luck.
 
i did not know boresnake could damage the rifle. i have a tipton rod,bore guide and vise. i did not use it because i did not want to carry it to the range.
i will try not to use boresnake in future.

Thanks Paul!
 
I've never heard that before that using a bore snake can ruin a barrel. How can that be?
 
I've never heard that before that using a bore snake can ruin a barrel. How can that be?
Run those hard sharp bronze points imbedded in a bore snake on some barrel steel & observe the scratches. Now, imagine that done again & again in your bore. The guy who invented & marketed the bore snake should be shot, pun intended. The only people who could possibly like them are the barrel replacement companies. To even imagine that running one of them thru a bore actually "cleans" it properly is in itself preposterous. Just my two cents!
 
Paul,
how long does it take for boresnake to damage the barrel ? i have done 25 passes so far . do you think it might have damaged to barrel ?
thanks
 
Jaymann, don't get too hung up on cleaning your barrel after every group. The accuracy of my Finnlights actually seems to improve after a few rounds have been down the barrel and this is not unusual. After quite a few more (50 or 60 say) the accuracy falls off. Also remember that the first shot out of a cleaned, dry barrel will often impact slightly differently (up to 1" with my rifles) to subsequent shots. This is why when I go hunting I always fire a "fouling" shot on my way to my hunting ground. (If there are Canadian geese around this often becomes a "fowling" shot :) - legal here as they are a major pest)

There is a lot of debate about boresnakes. Personally, like Paulsonconstruction, I keep well away from them but if a barrel has not been cleaned for 7 years it could well be improved by a boresnake due to its lapping effect, but in that case I would use polypads and autolube rather than a boresnake and do a proper lapping job.

There is also a lot of debate about the best way to clean a barrel. (There are some good videos on YouTube). I won't be drawn into such a debate other than to say. Spend the money and get a solid one-piece cleaning rod and use a boreguide.

David

PS You seem to have 2 posts active on the same topic which is somewhat confusing.
 
One problem when trying to shoot good groups with 85 Finnlights (and all the rest 85 synthetics) is the rather sticky rubber coating on the stock. I find it often helps if I put a piece of paper between the stock and whatever rest I'm using.
My guess is that the inconsistent friction between the sticky stock and the sandbag can cause shooter to "pull" the rifle on one shot and "push" it on the next thus causing shots to jump around on the target.

Also the accuracy of the rifle was most likely tested with 123 grain FMJ's at the factory.
 
So gentlemen, here is the result after cleaning my rifle thoroughly with regular cleaner and copper solvent.
1. 3 shot group of 0.75" with Sako superhammerhead 180 gr
2. 3 shot group of 1.5" with Sako superhammerhead 180 gr
3. 3 shot group of 1.5" with sako superhammerhead 150 gr but using zero set for 180 gr.

I am happy with the groups and I think with practice they might get better.


My complaint is now that even after using medium rings for 42mm scope , the spent shells hit the scope and scratching the scope!! Any suggestions ?

Thanks
 

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