Misaligned scope mount dovetails on new Sako 85 Finnlights

[sako 22 250]

Hi David
I have thought about it ....The Duralyt has 90 click adjustment range in total (1cm clicks) 60 per full turn the adjustment that I have left takes me out to about 600 m with the 22-250 .. .... when you shimmed did you use beer can spacer under the rear base?
Regards
Mark

 

[David_S]

Mark - it's a while since we did the M995 but I think we used two beer can shims and placed them between the two halves of the optilock rear mounts. I have a couple of spares I made in a jar of bits so will have a look when I have a moment and post a photo. I think we had to drill a hole in the centre. It all looked pretty neat when we had finished. You don't notice they are there.

The advantage of beer can shims is that you have to drink the beer first! Coke, Pepsi cans etc don't work half as well.

 

[Fallman]

Update on my Sako Mod 85 270WSM Finnlight w/severe scope mount issue. Beretta had the Gunsmith mount the Swaro scope on 2 other Sako Rifles to confirm for them that the scope wasnt the issue (even though 4 scopes had the problem on my rifle), I guess it is part of due diligence on the factories part. When the scope mounted perfectly on the other 2 rifles Beretta had them ship the rifle to them. So I am assuming it will be 2 or 3 weeks before I hear anything.

 

[David_S]

Fallman, thanks for the update. Will be interested to hear what Beretta do. It seems as if the problem may be not that uncommon.

Mark. This is one of my spare shims for the M995. It is 0.15mm thick.



and this is where it goes,



The rings on my M995 are 125mm centre to centre so each 0.15mm shim will raise the POI by 12cm at 100m or 12 clicks for your Duralyte assuming the same ring spacing. So 2 shims would place your new scope zero at 2 x 12 clicks + your existing 27 = 51 clicks which is just under the mid-range of 45 for the Duralyte which is where you want it.

Of course that assumes that Aussie beer cans are the same thickness as Kiwi ones.

(BTW congrats on the cricket! )

 

[sako 22 250]

Hi David
Many thanks a great solution to the problem
I pick up my new victory ht in a couple of weeks ( with the oz dollar going south at a great rate on knots, time was right before new shipment arrives) ..so its good timing to get the bases/rings set up correctly
Might have to try a couple of cans to check to check the shim thickness
(Commiserations Black caps had a great series , the emails from my work colleagues in NZ have been a lot quieter today)
Thanks again in your help with this.....
Mark

 

[David_S]

Mark, one point I forgot to mention is that you can get electrolytic corrosion between the alloy shim and steel base. To avoid this, once you have worked out how many shims you need and tested the setup, disassemble it all and put an etch primer on the shims, let dry and reassemble. We have had no further corrosion since doing this. We used Wattyl Super Etch Primer. - David

 

[sako 22 250]

David ..thanks for this,
once I have the new scope fitted will work out shim requirements ....
Will continue to explore beer can thickness in the meantime
One question if I may ...is how did you drill the neat hole in the shim, My testing todate has left a ragged edge?
Thanks again
Mark

 

[David_S]

Mark , use a punch not a drill. Keep up the exploratory work! - David

PS - Or clamp a section cut from the can between two pieces of wood, drill through the sandwich and then cut the shim to shape with scissors. I can't remember which method I used. I think the punch. Whatever method it is easier to make the hole before cutting the shape. BTW that is a hole punch not the alcoholic punch!!

 

[bloorooster]

Try a Paper punch! Thats what I use on beer can shims all the way up to Mason Jar lid shims...using a drill bit can be really risky especially if the user is trying to hold the shim material with their fingers and it basically turns into an open blender / meatgrinder situation....Bloo

 

[sako 22 250]

Thanks David & Bloo
Got a big hole punch in the stationary office at work
Will pay it a visit
Have a good Easter all
Mark

 

[sako 22 250]

Hi David
Good news ,.....I had gunsmith fit ( I advised him of lack of adjustment on current scope )my new scope , I have tested at range ...zeroed at 100 now have 102 clicks of up left .....happy!
Ps.... Scope was very good,
Will find out the adjustments he made to base and rings


Regards Mark

 

[David_S]

Mark, glad you got it sorted. That rifle/scope/bipod setup looks really nice. . Would work a treat on Canadian geese - head shots at 500m!! - David

 

[sako 22 250]

Hi David .. I am sure the gun and scope would be capable of it!!
It's just the bloke pulling the trigger that would be the issue
Keep well
Mark

 

[David_S]

So I am assuming it will be 2 or 3 weeks before I hear anything

Well, Fallman, what happened? - David

 

[Fallman]

Sako sent me a new rifle. However, the problem is still there. It takes 40 (110 available) and 52 clicks of elevation (93 available) to boresight it. I got rid of the optilock rings and got some Burris bases and Signature Rings which have plastic inserts for the rings like the optilocks but they can provide up to 20 moa in elevation. I mounted them with a 10 moa elevation corretion and it borsighted well. In fact it looks like my POI might be a tiny bit high but I will find out this weekend as I plan to go and zero the rifle. Also to see how the Burris bases and Rings hold up. It has been a major pain in the ass, but if it all works then it will be water under the bridge. Seems like the Sako line has not kept up with the modern technology scopes. While I was waiting for Beretta, I mounted the scope on a Kimber 300 wsm using talley rings and it sighted in perfectly. Went to the range and there was a life size bear target with a black circle painted for the kill zone at 850 yards. Could hit the circle consistantly (from a bench with bipod and sand bags). Nothing wrong with the scope.

 

[David_S]

Thanks for that update, Fallman. Did Beretta actually say why they replaced the rifle? If it was for the misaligned mounts you would think they would check the replacement before sending it to you. And are you saying your mounts are out horizontally as well as vertically? You realise you can make lateral (windage) adjustments by moving the front mount fore and aft on the taper?

The Burris signature rings have a good reputation here, and I like their ability to change the vertical alignment by swapping inserts.

I will be interested to hear how your 270WSM shoots. - David

 

[Fallman]

No Beretta did not give any reason they just sent a new rifle. I will update how the rings work soon. The plan is to go to the range on Sunday.

 

[David_S]

Just visited this old thread of mine and was surprised at the number of hits it has received. The dovetail problem must be more widespread than I realized or folks are checking out how to shim scope bases.

As an update, the epoxy "fix" on my 85 Finnlight 270WSM has held up well and I am finding it quite an accurate rifle now I have learnt how to shoot it and have developed a respectable load. Shoots 3 shot groups around .75MOA at 200 yds.

I will update how the rings work soon. The plan is to go to the range on Sunday.

So how is yours shooting, Fallman?

David

 

[David_S]

Restored Photos

Well, since this thread appears to be of continuing interest and, presumably, of some help to members mounting and aligning scopes, I have taken the time to find and repost the photos previously hosted by Photobucket. And, no, I did not pay the $400 extortion money/ransom requested by Photobucket.

David

 

[MarkJnK]

Hey guys, ressurectung an old thread here. I just came home from Bass Pro where i was considering an 85 Finnlight. I recalled reading about the issue of the dovetail bases not aligning so i mentioned it to my guy at Bass pro. First he brushed it off and said no way, can't be. So then we actually checked the model I was holding with the edge of a metal ruler and sure enough it was misaligned precisely like the OP's rifle. He was shocked. Between that and the ejection issues ive been reading about, i wasnt about to commit to it. I'm still scratching my head about the misaligned bases... how can this still be happening?