Sako L57244 Ackley questions

[Michael mcsputnik]

I just my got my Dad’s Sako L57244 Ackley back after years. I’ve got some questions I need help with. 1. is this a factory barrel? I was told it might be an aftermarket Douglas barrel cut down to about 19-1/2 inches. I sent pictures of markings/stamping on the barrel. I was told the barrel might be wore out and loose on accuracy. If it is bad should I buy a new barrel? And what calibers would be best to change to that would work with the 244 bolt? I’ve been told 6.5x55 Swedish would be a great fit. Or, would a re-bore of the old barrel be a better idea? If I redo the the old barrel would you change the caliber from the 244 Ackley? I would like to hear your ideas. Thanks, Mike.

 

[Michael mcsputnik]

I just my got my Dad’s Sako L57244 Ackley back after years. I’ve got some questions I need help with. 1. is this a factory barrel? I was told it might be an aftermarket Douglas barrel cut down to about 19-1/2 inches. I sent pictures of markings/stamping on the barrel. I was told the barrel might be wore out and loose on accuracy. If it is bad should I buy a new barrel? And what calibers would be best to change to that would work with the 244 bolt? I’ve been told 6.5x55 Swedish would be a great fit. Or, would a re-bore of the old barrel be a better idea? If I redo the the old barrel would you change the caliber from the 244 Ackley? I would like to hear your ideas. Thanks, Mike.

 

[Michael mcsputnik]

I also am wondering if the hand load bullets that we’re used are a good fit. They are a cci primer with h414 powder at 45grains and a 85 grain Sierra varmiter bullet. It came with 4 boxes of shells I’m guessing that they are all this. I never reloaded so I don’t know much about it.

 

[stonecreek]

You have a Sako L57 action with a factory Sako barrel which has been set back, rechambered, and cut & recrowned. According to the factory records it left the factory as an action only, so at some point a genuine Sako heavy barrel was fitted to it. If you take the metal out of the stock you can see the original caliber marking on what is now the bottom of the barrel.

Since the barrel has been cut back, the shorter barrel isn't going to do the .244 Improved cartridge justice in terms of velocity -- and since it is unoriginal to the gun, which also has a custom, non-factory stock, you would lose no value in replacing it. Be aware, however, that fitting a new barrel (in any appropriate caliber) will cost you as much or more than the rifle is currently worth.

 

[gunner620]

Oh, the good old days . Did you buy any ? Jim

 

[gunner620]

trying to attach again. Computer is is giving me trouble, will try again tomorrow.

 

[icebear]

Nice looking custom stock there. My advice: First thing you do is test fire it with the existing ammo and see how it shoots. The fact that somebody told you the barrel might be shot out is meaningless. A Sako barrel is very durable and would have to have an awful lot of rounds down the pipe to affect the accuracy by much. One thing that could degrade the accuracy is excess copper in the barrel, so I'd advise giving it a good cleaning with an aggressive copper remover like Bore Tech Eliminator or Bore Tech Copper Remover. Follow the instructions; you can't use a brass jag or brush.

There's nothing wrong with the .244 Ackley Improved caliber, except that it's a really obscure wildcat, based on an already rare caliber. As Stonecreek has pointed out, the short barrel reduces the advantage it would have in a longer barrel, but there's no reason to replace a perfectly good barrel if it shoots well. One of the expert reloaders can confirm what you have to do to make brass. Normally with the Ackley calibers you just need to fire a regular cartridge; the case will fireform to the Improved contour. You may or may not have to trim the case, but it's no big deal. And you've already got a few boxes of ammo that you can reload the brass.

 

[Michael mcsputnik]

Thank you for your note and I have shot it and I am going to have to get a better scope on it before a real assessment can be made. It has a set 4 power Lyman on it currently and I don’t see that we’ll threw it. I’m going to get it on a sled bed to take the human variable out. It has a sako low mount on it and a 40mm scope won’t fit. It there a Leopoldo rings that fit the sako base. Or I might try to look at a smaller leupold scope to fit the sako bases. Another problem I found is when it’s on safety and the bolt is wiggled the safety moves to fire. Your thoughts are appreciated.

 

[Michael mcsputnik]

You have a Sako L57 action with a factory Sako barrel which has been set back, rechambered, and cut & recrowned. According to the factory records it left the factory as an action only, so at some point a genuine Sako heavy barrel was fitted to it. If you take the metal out of the stock you can see the original caliber marking on what is now the bottom of the barrel.

Since the barrel has been cut back, the shorter barrel isn't going to do the .244 Improved cartridge justice in terms of velocity -- and since it is unoriginal to the gun, which also has a custom, non-factory stock, you would lose no value in replacing it. Be aware, however, that fitting a new barrel (in any appropriate caliber) will cost you as much or more than the rifle is currently worth.

 

[Michael mcsputnik]

Thank you for your reply. Another question I have is the gun when safety and the bolt wiggled the gun comes off safety. I’m wondering if you have seen this before and best way to fix. I know as you said it may cost more than the guns value to put a new barrel on it but the guns worth more to me than it’s value so I would do that if it turns out it’s needed. I was about 11-12 and watched in amazement as my dad traded for this gun. Also it has a sako low mount rings on it now and I’d like to put a 40 mm scope on it. Does the leupold rings fit the sako bases or do you have to change it all?thanks again for your help. Mike

 

[bloorooster]

trying to attach again. Computer is is giving me trouble, will try again tomorrow.

Here ya go Jim…

 

[gunner620]

Thanks Hippie. I just could not get the file attached. Jim

 

[bloorooster]

Very cool old Barrel chart Gunner! Answers to a few questions are answered! Twist rates! The 12 groove bore was a standard issue at the time. The explanation of the cold forging process is very interesting, on the molecular level!
Wishing once more for time travel…

bloo

 

[bloorooster]

Mcspuntnik…the Leupold VXII 3-9 compact is a good fit on low rings along with the VXII 3-9x33 ultra light. I think the older VXII 2-7x33’s will work too
Bloo

 

[Michael mcsputnik]

Thanks Old Hippie. I saw another post about those compact Leupold scopes and came to the conclusion that was the way to go with the original sako mounts and rings. I just got my hands on the old 57 yesterday to I’m learning a lot from you guys on here. Anyone seen the problem with the safety clicking off if the bolt is wiggled. Anyone know the cost ballpark on a sako heavy barrel now or who would sell them. I live in small town and no gun smiths in sight. I did order the bore cleaner and non brass jags to clean it as was suggested earlier. Is there a highly regarded gun I could send it to if it ends up that way. Thanks a lot guys for your help and suggestions I’m trying to enjoy the process of figuring it out. Mike

 

[bloorooster]

I was just looking at my ‘57, the safety, if not fully engaged will flip back to the fire position if the bolt is wiggled a few times..check to be sure the safety lever is rocking fully rearward .. see below ..

safety forward (off)

safety rearward (on)

yours may be gummed up or fouled..a good cleaning may take care of it. Fully engaged you can wiggle and shake the bolt all you want no problem.
Bloo

 

[Michael mcsputnik]

I was just looking at my ‘57, the safety, if not fully engaged will flip back to the fire position if the bolt is wiggled a few times..check to be sure the safety lever is rocking fully rearward .. see below ..

safety forward (off)View attachment 24171

safety rearward (on)View attachment 24172

yours may be gummed up or fouled..a good cleaning may take care of it. Fully engaged you can wiggle and shake the bolt all you want no problem.
Bloo

 

[Michael mcsputnik]

Ok I’ll give that a try. Would you just soak the bolt in the bore tech eliminator that was suggested to use to clean the barrel or something different.

 

[icebear]

Ok I’ll give that a try. Would you just soak the bolt in the bore tech eliminator that was suggested to use to clean the barrel or something different.

The penetrating solvent of choice is Kano Kroil. It's a very thin penetrating lubricant that's good for loosening up stuck parts and rust. You can buy it at most hardware stores, in either a small can, a spray, or a jug. I'd start out just by squirting some Kroil into the safety mechanism and see if that loosens things up. You need to wait anywhere from a few hours to a few days for the Kroil to work. Rotating the safety every now and then will also help. Soaking it in a Kroil bath is the next stage if the first stage doesn't loosen it up. If Kroil doesn't work, you'll have to take it apart. There are some instructions posted somewhere on this forum how to do that; I've never done it so I'm no help there.

I don't recommend using a gun cleaning solvent. The stuff leaves a residue and if you use a gun cleaning solvent, you'll wind up having to take the mechanism apart to clean the solvent out, or at least putting it in a ultrasonic cleaner. You may well have to take it apart anyway, but Kroil is a better choice. Or you can even try WD-40. The stuff is useless as a lubricant but it has some value as a penetrating solvent/cleaner.