Triple E wax from OZ

[paulsonconstruction]

Occasionally there are posts asking about what to use to refresh or help protect a wood gunstock & a few waxes or oils are mentioned, so I thought I might add another to the list. A local woodworking/wood turner I know turned me on to this product. He uses it on his lathe turned wood projects, like bowls. While it's turning in the lathe he applies the stuff to the bare wood & builds it up till it actually is the finish, not just a wax over a finish. It has some micro abrasives in it & polishes out to a brilliant finish if so desired. Seals pores & makes ducks look like amateurs at shedding water. Comes from the Land of Oz, so our Aussie members may be familiar with it. I have tried it on multiple types of finishes & both hand buffed it with a terry cloth & used an orbital buffer with wonderful results. Makes minor scratches disappear on the glossy stocks with the buffer. Gives a nice luster to the softer finishes. Comes in a big 250 ml jar & you need to stir it first. Works great on all your wood furniture as well. This stuff is more than just a wax. Readily available on line. Got mine off Amazon.

 

[South Pender]

Can you tell us what the ingredients are--besides Stoddard Solvent? Does it contain any silicone?

 

[paulsonconstruction]

Nothing listed on the jar. Just says, "For full instructions see data sheet 10 online at : www.ubeaut.com.au/infosheets.htm".

 

[sraaw]

I agree wholeheartedly with your assessment Paulson. I have used it for knife making for years. Mainly as finnish on handle scales but on my Sako stocks as well and never used anything like it. Easy to apply with very quick results when polished on a buffing wheel, but still better than most when applied by hand.

 

[kj60]

Here is one formula some might like to try. Take PURE turpentine [ not mineral turpentine] and dissolve shavings of beeswax into it until saturated. Then add pure tung oil [ oil from the Tung nut ] NOT the product called Tung oil, which is mixed with various inc poly. Mix to a light or creamy consistency and apply the first few coats by hand by sanding it into the stock with a 400 grit or better wet and dry. Leave till dry - it will take time - and repeat at least 3 or 4 times. Then buff - and in quality timber will give a real depth and angle shift to the grain. Absolutely waterproof - even to boiling water - and feels wonderful under the hand as well. Avoid sanding the checkering as it will decrease the sharpness and consequent hold and grip. I wont use use any other method myself - but also I don't mind taking the time to do 6 or 7 coats. Also easily touched up if it eventually starts to wear. Try it on a piece of timber first other than your prize stock to see if you like it. Each successive coat takes longer to dry so it requires a bit of patience.